| So
what're ya planning for Easter Break? Back
in February, when his colleagues at Pembroke Jr. Sr. High School were discussing
Easter-break plans, someone asked eighth-grade German teacher Glenn Call what
he had planned. "Siberia,"
he said, "I think I'll go to Siberia." Colleagues
returned puzzled looks. By now the staff at Pembroke are used to odd announcements
from German teachers Herr Schneider and Herr Call, but this one really seemed
to beg an explanation. "Well,
there aren't many places left in the world where we're welcome," Herr Call
explained. "Folks are chopping each other up in Malasia, in India, in Africa
and in South America. Siberia is a relatively safe place these days and after
all these years, I guess I'd just like to see it!" It
turns out that Siberia - located in the heart of Russia - is |
not such a strange destination
for Herr Call. Soon after returning from Viet-Nam, Herr Call spent some serious
time at Yale University learning Russian. "Russian is a wonderful, melodic
language and I really loved it, but those just weren't good times to visit Russia,"
he explains. Years
went by and under President Ronald Reagan times began to change resulting in the
collapse of the Soviet empire. Last
summer, Herr Call participated in a month-long seminar at the Herder
Institute at the University of Leipzig in Germany along with eight other
American German teachers and ten German teachers from Russia. "After
English, the most popular foreign language in Russia is German," explains
Call. "The current president of Russia, Vladimir Putin, a former KGB spy
in Europe, speaks German fluently and the German connection is considered by many
Russians as one of modern-day Russia's tickets into the twenty-first century." |
|
| The seminar
in Leipzig saw the American and Russian teachers working together ten to twelve
hours a day with German as the common language. "I'd forgotten most of my
Russian, but it began coming back bit by bit as I listened to the Russians speaking
among themselves. | They
were tickled when I'd drop a Russian phrase here and there and we developed a
great friendship. When
I realized I had two weeks vacation over Easter, I saw an opportunity to visit
a place that had been on my mind for thirty years," stated Herr Call. |
|
| The
flight to Moscow's Sheremetyevo
Airport on the German airline Lufthansa was pretty perfunctory, although
long. In Moscow, after taking two and a half hours to clear customs, Herr Call
was picked up by one of his Russian friends, Sveta Nassedkina and her friend and
was whisked off to an airport on the other side of Moscow for his four hour flight
on Siberian Airlines to Kemerovo,
in Siberia. Moscow is a huge city and it took nearly an hour at break-neck speed
to get to Vnukovo Airport
After checking
in, Herr Call left his escort and went through security without emptying his pockets,
thus setting off all the alarms. A tired-looking agent manning the check-poiont
looked up briefly and just waved him on. The weary look on his face seemed to
say, "Go on, why | cause
trouble?" Security was like this for the rest of Herr Call's time in Russia. In
the airport, Herr Call met two families from the Midwest who were traveling to
Siberia to adopt children. He would run into these folks several times during
his travels. The
flight to Siberia was interesting, to say the least. The plane was a three-engined
TU-154 which
appeared to have been built about ten years ago and not maintained particularly
well during the course of its service.Herr Call sat next to a retired chemistry
professor who struck up a lively conversation, distracting him from the rattling
and creaking of the old plane as it lumbered its way half-way across Russia to
Siberia. |

Left to right: Sergei Duschik, Herr Call, Agatha,
her mother Lise, Sergei's daughter Anastasia ("Nasty"), Sergei's
wife Irine and Nasty's then boyfriend (not husband) Paul
| | Herr
Call's Siberian hosts--the family Duschik--met him at the airport and they took
him to his hotel in the middle of town. After checking in and freshening up a
little, he was picked up by the family again and taken on a grand tour of the
town. The city
of Kemerovo, located on
the Tomsk River, about 200 miles from Novosibirsk, has a population of about 500,000.
Although there
had been a coal-mining settlement there since the late 1800's, the town as it
looks today was developed after the Second World War and most of the |
buildings were modern although
a little worn. The
weather in Siberia was about like it was in western New York when Herr Call left:
slightly below freezing at night and slightly above freezing during the day. It
was obvious that they had had a lot of snow until just recently. While
in Kemerovo, Herr Call attended a two-day seminar on teaching German sponsored
by the German-Russian Federation in that region. Back in the late 1700's Catherine
the Great had encouraged many Germans to move to Russia as laborers and so Russia
is full of communities of native-speaking Germans |
| |
One of the most interesting
things Herr Call observed about this town was the general type of people there.
Located just east of the Caucasus mountains, these "Caucasian" people,
on the whole, were much taller than usual, with light hair and very fair skin.
"It was
an odd feeling, being in a crowd of people and not being able to see over everyone's
head," observed the six-foot-three Herr Call! One
thing very different from life in the United States was the number of police of
various kinds. In a small store the | size
of the IGA in Corfu, he counted eight uniformed police. Every so many miles along
any street there were groups of special police -- called "militia" and
carrying sub-machine guns -- who randomly flagged down cars checked documents
and questioned the driver and passengers. Because
of a typo on his travel visa, Herr Call spent a lot of his time at the district
militia office while they tried to straightened it out. With an oblique reference
to the old Communist labor camps in Siberia, Herr Call's hosts joked quietly that
perhaps Herr Call might end up spending more time in Siberia than expected! |

Russian Orthodox Church in Kemerovo

Looking up the river Tomsk |
| On
the last day of his five-day visit to Siberia, Herr Call and his friends all piled
in a big mini-van and headed two hours north into snow country and a vast open-air
museum. The museum was dedicated to the original peoples of the area and featured
replicas of old living quarters, huts and the like. One
particularly interesting exhibit showed how the original peoples "buried"
their dead. They bundled them up and tied the bodies to tall poles, a practical
solution in a place where the soil was frozen year round. |
Carved into the rock along
the vast Tomsk river were pertroglyphs dating back thousands of years. Along
with the ancient petroglyphs were modern "John-loves-Mary" graffiti
notes carved in the same stone. The whole place was unfortunately completely unguarded. Herr
Call was deeply impressed by the vast expanses of woods in Siberia. The mostly-white
birch woods had sprinklings of evergreens, making for a breathtakingly beautiful
fairy-tale landscape. |

Petroglyphs at the Open-Air Museum.
On the left is a figure of a moose and two hunters dating back over 1,200 years.
On the right, someone named "Pyotr" carved his name in 1945.

How the dead were "buried" a thousand years ago!
| |
Bidding farewell to his
friends in Siberia, Herr Call flew back to Moscow where he spent the next four
days visiting landmarks and various schools in and about the Moscow area. At
his first school visit, Herr Call was impressed at how well the 8th graders spoke
German and English. The students were likewise amused at Herr Call's Russian.
Asking why so many students were absent in his first class, it was explained that
the normal number for language classes--even in the poorest of schools--was six
to eight students. Russian
schools feel that language classes can't be effectively taught with larger groups
than eight or so. This sentiment was expressed over and over again as Herr Call
visited other schools and spoke with teachers and |
administrators about teaching
language in Russia and in Pembroke. Herr Call's hosts in Moscow were puzzled that
he preferred to spend his short time in Moscow visiting schools rather than going
to museums. "I felt I could get the best feel for Russian culture through
the kids in the schools," he answered. He
did visit the famous Red
Square, however. "It was an eerie feeling when I realized I was actually
standing in front of the Kremlin, where Lenin, Stalin, Kruschev and all those
nasties had held the whole world hostage for some eighty years," said Herr
Call. "To think of the millions of people who had been brutally murdered
in the name of that regime was just astounding. I stood there for a long time,
almost afraid to breathe. When my host finally asked me why I was just standing
there I just couldn't explain." |

Mickey D's in downtown Moscow

Three Schoolgirls in Moscow ponder the big American |
|

With two girls in a Moscow high school |

On Red Square -- a very strange feeling! |
|
| The school
visits showed modern post-Communist Russia in a different light, though. In one
elementary classroom, the students had prepared lists of questions for Herr Call.
"We had quite a lively conversation back and forth," he reported. "The
kids were cute and overall, it looked a whole lot like an American elementary
classroom." In
another school, he was invited to lead a group of 12th-and 13th-year English students
in a discussion of classics they had been reading, like Tom Sawyer, Alice in
Wonderland and The Jungle Book. In yet another school, he was the guest
speaker at a convocation where the students asked questions about life and school
in America for nearly an hour. Of special interest seemed to be the Salt Lake
Olympics the NBA and President Ronald Reagan In
a third school, he was interviewed for nearly an hour by four "philology"
students who were planning on studying languages at Moscow University. In all
the schools, | students
were anxious to try out their German or English, asking for autographs from their
American visitor as he walked through the hallways. "Keep
in mind, only twelve years ago, America was the Evil Empire to these folks,"
explained Call. "I was the first American most of them had ever seen outside
the movies and this was quite an experience for them!" President
Reagan's name came up often in conversations with adults and students. He is widely
held to be America's greatest president! Easter
Break and the visit to Siberia and Moscow was over all too soon, but Herr Call
brought home many wonderful memories and not just a few new ideas for his students
at Pembroke. "The Russian kids were wonderful, but I'm still convinced that
I have the finest students in the world," said Herr Call with a big smile! |
|